When you have a largish bust, wrap tops and dresses can be very flattering, but not if they are gaping!
I do like a nice wrap dress, but have really struggled over the years (with safety pins!) to make them cover me up.
I recently made the Sew Over It Ultimate Wrap Dress as one of my #2017makenine. I used a fabulous bottle green jersey from Euro fabrics via ebay. And, I must admit, I did think about trying to do a FBA on it. But as there was no waist seam, I thought it might be too complicated, so I risked it. I absolutely love it, but I do wish now that I had found a way as I feel more comfortable in it with a vest top underneath.
So the next wrap item on my #2017makenine was the Wrap top, Butterick B6285, by Gertie. It looked so flattering, but I knew it would be a better fit with a FBA. I bought some lovely navy Milano jersey from Fabric Godmother for it.
So this is what I did:
There is a bust point marked on the pattern piece, but I knew my bust point was to the south and west of this (like most of my body parts over the years, there has been some drift!). I drew a line directly up from the hem to my new bust point, then another line from the notches on the side seam and a final line from the shoulder to the bust point. I guessed this point as half way between the back and front hems and about half way between the neck edge and the short sleeve cutting line.
I then cut up the line from the front hem to the bust point, then up again to the shoulder. I also cut from the bust point to the side seam notches, but left a little bit to pivot. I then spread the pattern pieces apart – about 4 cm at the front hem edge and a couple of centimetres from the bust point to the side seam. I tapered the opening up to the shoulder. I then filled in the gaps with tracing paper and taped the pattern pieces to the tracing paper. I redrew the front hem line.
I placed the pattern piece on my fabric. It is a very counter-intuitive pattern piece. The front, back and sleeve are all in one that you cut out 4 times (twice on the fold). There are back darts and a back side seam and once you have those sewn, you can see how it is all going to work. There are also ties to attach to the front edges. It is a quick sew once you have sussed out the pattern pieces, as it is fully lined and you can easily use a normal sewing machine with a zigzag stitch.
I am really pleased with it. The fabric has a beautiful drape and it fits really well across the bust. But it is a little short and needs a high waisted skirt or trousers below it if you don’t want to show any muffin top! I would definitely make this again.